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Ingredient glossary
IPL (Intense Pulsed Light): What It Is and What It Does
IPL, or intense pulsed light, is a broad-spectrum light technology used in at-home hair removal devices. It targets melanin, the pigment in hair, so it needs a clear contrast between darker hair and lighter skin to work, and it does not respond well to blonde, red, grey or white hair.
What it does
IPL devices deliver flashes of broad-spectrum light that are absorbed by melanin in the hair, and the resulting heat is associated with disrupting the hair follicle's ability to grow new hair. A single session only affects follicles in an active growth phase, so a course of repeated weekly sessions over several months, followed by occasional maintenance, is generally how these devices are used rather than a one-off treatment. Device power and wavelength affect how well this works.
Who it suits
IPL generally suits people with a clear contrast between darker hair and lighter skin, since the technology depends on that contrast to target melanin accurately. Darker skin tones need a device explicitly rated safe and effective for that skin tone, since the risk of skin irritation rises with less contrast. Blonde, red, grey and white hair generally do not respond well to IPL regardless of skin tone.
Cautions
IPL can cause temporary redness, mild swelling or discomfort at the treatment site, and incorrect use or unsuitable skin tone/hair colour pairing raises the risk of irritation or pigmentation changes. Following the manufacturer's instructions on power setting and treatment area precisely matters. Anyone with a complex skin condition, or unsure whether their skin and hair combination is suitable, should check with a dermatologist before starting.
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Frequently asked questions
- Does IPL permanently remove hair?
- IPL is generally described as reducing hair growth rather than permanently removing it, since some regrowth can occur over time as follicles recover. Consistent treatment sessions, followed by occasional maintenance, are generally needed to sustain the reduction, and individual results vary with hair type and how closely the recommended schedule is followed.
- Why doesn't IPL work on all hair colours?
- IPL targets melanin, the pigment that gives hair its colour, so it needs enough contrast between hair and skin to work. Blonde, red, grey and white hair contain too little melanin for the device to target effectively, which is why IPL is generally described as unsuitable for those hair colours.
- Can IPL cause burns or skin damage?
- It is uncommon when a device is used correctly and matched to the right skin tone, but using too high a power setting or ignoring the instructions raises the risk of burns or pigmentation changes. Significant discomfort or blistering is a reason to stop immediately and seek advice from a dermatologist.
This is general information about a cosmetic ingredient, not medical advice. It does not describe any specific product, and does not diagnose, treat or cure any condition. If you have a persistent skin or scalp concern, speak to a pharmacist, GP or dermatologist. See our editorial policy for how we handle claims.